Here's a tutorial about how to take out a diaper allowance. Remember to add some wearing ease to your measurements. 1-2" for close fitting, 3-4" for standard fitting, 4-6" for loose fitting, and 6" or more for oversized.
I am a costume designer and seamstress. You can see some of my work at www.butteoperahouse.com. I love all arts and crafts and have tried almost everything at least once. Sewing is my favorite though and I love to "Frankenstein" (mix and mingle) patterns. I call it "Frankensteining" because sometimes you never know what you'll get!!
Very close fitting- Actual chest or bust measurement. Less if using a knit or stretch fabric. Good for dance or swim suits. Close fitting- 1-2" over chest measurement. Standard Fitting- 2-4" over chest measurement. Loose Fitting- 4-6" over chest measurement. Oversized- 6" or more over chest measurement.